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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.